Thursday 3 September 2009

a tale of broken surfboards, respect of Bali barrels and the dream of finding perfect waves...









After my planned trip to the longboard heaven of Costa Rica had to be aborted for various reasons, I found myself on plane heading for Bali. Whilst I enjoy fast and hollow surf like most other surfers,I had been put off Bali by macho talk I had heard in the past,of shallow and dangerous reefs plus being told how you need a helmet and wetsuit top for protection from these reefs, that are hungry for your skin. However my boyfriend had convinced me it was jus big talk and there were only a couple of spots like that, which we would avoid and I had always wanted to see Bali for myself.

As my boardbag appeared at the baggage collection point after the flight, I was struck with fright as one end of my bag was torn to shreds. When I opened my bag, my worst fears were confirmed, the last twelve inches of my board had been smashed into

a hundred pieces. My favourite board was ruined, a gorgeous raspberry and magenta Corduroy nine foot single fin speed shape, a never to be replaced custom, I had even mixed the colours for the resin myselfNothing could hold back the tears, I felt my trip was ruined.
Mark and I traipsed around the dirty, smog ridden and humid Kuta being harassed by hawkers and shopkeepers in search of a longboard, to no avail. The smog made my eyes red and the humidity turned my new haircut into an afro to add to my woes, I started question why I am here. But the karmic wheel is always spinning on the Island of the Gods and when we were about to quit I found the perfect Bali longboard in a little back street shop, manned by a gaggle of typical Bali groms. So after the obligatory haggling I purchased a Town and Country high performance nine footer.
Once I escaped Kuta, I found the real Bali, a breathtaking island with many fantastic waves. We scored great waves at Medewi, Kuta Reef, Nusa Lembongan, Uluwatu and many spots up the east coast. Not once did I need a helmet as I revelled in the Indonesian perfection.
The people of Bali are some of the most beautiful on the inside and outside you will ever meet with an amazing culture going back thousands of years. After exploring the island, being invited by a local family to a small traditional ceremony, watching a historical play, viewing temples and witnessing the Balinese people approaching their difficult daily lives with such good humour and kindness, I was inspired to take many photos and produce an eBook: See ‘Those bagus days’